Tiling: Bathroom Walls (Day 8)

Having worked all weekend relocating the door and finishing the prep of the walls and floors for tiles, the bathroom was ready for Sean (our tiler) when he walked in on Monday morning.

Morning of Feb 27th - the wood batten is set for holding the tiles above.

Similar to how he started the shower, Sean set a wooden batten at the base of the 2nd row on the wall in order to hold the tiles. By locating and leveling the batten perfectly, it provides a stable and accurate foundation for the walls, and later, once the tiles are set, and the floor is tiled, he can go in and tile the gap precisely. This is one of those great tricks one can learn watching a professional -- if it was not done this way, I can now see that there could be inaccuracies that would be visible. Setting such large tiles is an extremely unforgiving task...I'm now really thankful that "Aglaya" talked me out of doing the tiling myself!

Late morning - most of the wall is finished.

After Sean finished the shower, it was amazing to see how fast he could work with just straight walls and full tiles -  in just a few hours he had finished one of the walls and had started the other. These walls are all in limestone - which is a beautiful but soft stone - and they are intended to provide a more neutral background against the bold color of the slate.

Turning the corner onto the final wall. You can see the red line of the laser level on the left side

By 1pm Sean had completed half of the final wall.

While Sean was working on the walls, I was resetting the loo's push-button flusher - it's wall mounted and had to be properly fixed to the wall before the tiles go over it. This was the last thing I did before heading to the airport...now it's up to "Aglaya" to finish overseeing Sean's work!

The mostly completed shower (with the laser level mounted on a pole)

Bathroom:Waterproofing the floor

The final push to finish the bathroom waterproofing has come down to today, which is a Sunday - my flight back to NYC is late tomorrow afternoon, so anything I need to do has to get done by the end of the day today.

 This will include affixing the waterproof tile backer boards (Marmox boards) to the walls and floor that will be tiled (outside of the shower). These are the final bits of waterproofing, and this will allow our tiler (Sean) to complete his work. Since I'm leaving tomorrow and he's still going, it's become apparent that his work will (unfortunately) only be finished after I've gone. This makes the perfectionist/architect in me nervous, but I've seen over the past week that Sean is very meticulous and we've spent a lot of time going over all the details and issues...so hopefully it will be OK. But "Aglaya" is going to have to step up and take charge after tomorrow!

Marmox boards lining the bathroom walls

Once the waterproofing on the bathroom walls had dried for 24 hours, I was able to apply the waterproof tile backer boards (Marmox boards) Sunday afternoon. Similar to the shower, after the boards are fixed to the waterproofed plywood, the joints are sealed with a waterproof silicone bead, followed by waterproof tape.

After removing the loo

After the walls were completed, it was time to focus on the floor - I had been nervous about this, as it involved removing our loo (toilet) in order to fully waterproof the floor below. Fortunately it went relatively smoothly and was easy to remove (with a little help from "Aglaya").

The plywood under the loo waterproofed, and the 1st batch of flexible tile adhesive ready to go

With the loo out of the way, I quickly applied the waterproof membrane to the plywood and after it was dry enough (could not wait the 24 hours this time!), I prepped for putting the Marmox boards on the floor. This involved pre-cutting all the boards so they would fit, and then mixing smaller buckets of the tile adhesive.

The first batch of the flexible tile adhesive spread out on the floor

It's worth pointing out here that I had ordered a special type of tile adhesive for the floors. Wood joists with a plywood sub-floor are not the best base for tile because they have a tendency to subtly move due to expansions/contractions in the heat/cold. In an old Victorian building like ours, movement could even be caused by large truck driving by outseide. These very small  movements have a tendency to make tiles -- or the grout lines between them -- crack, so one has to minimize the possibility of movement, while still accommodating for some movement. Here I had fixed the plywood with as many screws as possible to make the subfloor as rigid as it could be, and will then apply a flexible tile adhesive that is designed to go over wood subfloors. The adhesive will fasten the Marmox boards to the floor (minimizing the transfer of any vibrations or movement) while the Marmox board itself will provide a very rigid and inflexible base for the tile. The hope is that this carefully thought out system will minimize any cracking of our large, beautiful limestone tiles...

The 1st Marmox board in place on the floor - using some sacks to hold down the boards in a few areas

Yours truly placing the 2nd Marmox board in place

Spreading the next batch of adhesive

A close-up view of the adhesive - one uses a notched trowel so the adhesive grabs the boards better

Mixing smaller amount of the adhesive made it easier to work with, and within two hours I had all of the Marmox boards in place. Similar to the walls, beads of silicone are placed bewteen the joints, and then taped over with a waterproof tape.

The silicone between the joints (on the left); the silicone covered by waterproof tape (on the right)

After the work is completed, the loo is fixed back in place

By the end of the day (10pm!) the bathroom floors and walls were completed, and ready for the tiler to carry on with his work in the morning...

Tiling: The Shower (Day 3)

As our tiler continued to work his way around the shower, it had become apparent that the plumber needed to come back to install the faucet for the sink. Sean had started on the limestone, and would soon begin the rear wall of the shower - this rear wall is also where the sink's faucet is located, so once the more time-consuming shower was completed, the remainder of the bathroom was expected to go quickly.  Because the faucet is wall mounted, this became a critical issue as it had to be installed before the tile, so Sean could accurately cut the tile around it.

The limestone starts to go up

"Aglaya" and I had actually spent quite a bit of time deciding on the type of faucet (or tap, as it's known in the UK) - I was advocating a simple, modern wall-mounted one, whereas "Aglaya" was keen on a more traditional deck-mounted version. We looked at literally dozens of models trying to come to a resolution. So a stalemate ensued for a while..."Aglaya" wasn't necessarily inclined to give in, but I think when it became evident how much this particular design decision meant to me, she relented...I have always envisioned having a wall-mounted tap in my loo!


The tap arrived that morning, so while Sean was setting limestone, I was marking up the plywood wall to locate the faucet, so it would be ready for our plumber when he showed up.

Locating the faucet & cutting the holes

Fortunately everything was ready when the plumber showed-up - he immediately mounted the faucet onto the plywood, and then  began connecting the pipes to it. Because this was happening while Sean was tiling, there was a lot of activity, but fortunately no one got in anyone else's way. By the end of the day, Sean had installed most of the smaller limestone pieces, and our faucet was connected and ready to be tiled around.

To properly install the faucet, our plumber removed the plywood to do it

The plumber connecting pipes to the faucet

End of the day - limestone and faucet installed (faucet is in the bottom right corner)

Once Sean and the plumber left for the day,  I cleared out the bathroom floor and primed it for the rubberized waterproof membrane. After 20 minutes it was dry, and began painting on the membrane - the same waterproofing used on the shower walls. At the same time, I also installed a few pieces of the insulated waterproof tile backer board on the side wall. By the time everything was finished it was late at night, but fortunately the work had been silent...

The bathroom floor primed for waterproofing

Part of the floor waterproofed, and a few pieces of tile backer-board installed

Midnight - Yours Truly painting on the rubberized membrane

1am - the completed waterproof membrane on the bathroom floor

Tiling: Starting the Shower

After a last-minute scramble to get the shower ready for our tiler, Sean, he showed up first thing this morning (8am!) to begin work. He probably has no idea how much effort went into getting everything ready for him - besides building-out the shower from scratch and waterproofing it, we had spent weeks picking out tiles ...and then, upon delivery, I had to single-handedly haul hundreds of pounds of stone upstairs into the flat...

Feb 14th - the first of two tile deliveries - the slate

Sean started by bringing all of his tools upstairs and setting up his cutting area out on the balcony. Because our tiles are natural stone, he is using a "wet saw", which uses water, so besides some dust it also tends to splatter water...everywhere. This is why we decided it best to set up the wet saw outside.

Morning of Feb 20th - the tiler's tools next to the stacks of tile

Sean's set up for cutting tiles with the wet saw on the balcony

Once Sean was set up, we reviewed the layout and design together. This was actually quite complex because of the arch and ledge in the shower, plus the fact that the limestone and slate are sort of woven together in the shower (as if the limestone is passing in front of the slate).

We also went over - in painstaking detail - exactly how and where each course of tile would run and where the seams would be, how wide the joints would be, and so on. This may sound like over-doing it, but if you don't figure this stuff out in advance, you might end up with a faucet, or a shower valve, coming through the tile off-center, or  near an edge. If that happens, it will look like a mistake - particularly with such large tiles, and could also be impossible to cut without breaking the tile.

Ready for tile: right before the tiler gets started

So after everything was worked out, Sean set-up a laser level (which was really cool!) and marked out each course. Using the laser, he then set a wooden batten at the bottom of the first course to provide a permanent guide, and to prevent the tiles from slipping.

The tiler set up a laser to set the level for each tile course

One interesting thing was that the first course Sean set on the wall was not at the lowest level (adjacent to the floor), but the next one up. I learned that the lowest wall course is only installed after the floor goes in, so that there's an overlap (similar in concept to how flashing is done) and also so the exact dimensions can be measured once the floor tiles are set.

Sean on the balcony cutting tiles

Sean moved quite quickly, so by the end of the day, he had completed the entire area of wall under the arch...and it looked great!

4pm - The first set of tiles completed!

Although Sean finished for the day at 4pm, I was mobilizing to continue prepping a few unfinished areas in the shower and bathroom that I had not yet completed. Because there was still a decent amount of work left for me to do, we worked out something of a tag-team arrangement - he would tile during the day, and I would do the prep work in the late afternoon and evening after he left. We agreed that every day we would have to co-ordinate the schedule so that I could stay a few steps ahead of him.

That night - building out the exterior face of the shower & setting the shower ceiling's level

For tonight, we had decided I should finish the outside edges of the shower - this included the step/ledge at the floor of the shower, the upper face (or soffit) at the ceiling, and the side face of the shower. By finishing these areas, the shower's waterproofing and substrate would be complete, and it would also give Sean a stopping point by setting the levels of the ceiling, and outside walls.

Adding the tile backer board on the side and top edges

Adding the tile backer board to the bottom ledge/face of the shower

The mostly completed ledge/step

By the time everything was finished, it was 11:30pm...but my portion of the shower is finally (!) finished and now Sean won't be held back by anything on my end...at least in the shower...

The shower at the end of the night

Finishing the Shower: Waterproofing (part 5)

With the tiler coming on Monday, there's only one more day (Sunday) left to finish getting everything ready for him. I guess the one drawback of all that waterproofing is that it took a long, long time to do....so now I realize that we won't have the whole bathroom built out and waterproofed by Monday - there's just no way I can get it all done.

Because the tiler will be starting with the shower, we definitely have to have at least that finished by Sunday night, no matter what. This is starting to feel a bit like deja vu! When we were approaching our other big milestones (finishing the roof and turning the heat on), we ended up doing similar scrambles, with late nights to get everything done. This is a trend I would definitely prefer not to see continue...

Feb 18th - starting point for the final push

The first task is to paint the waterproofing membrane on the plywood floor. We had to do this late Saturday night because it needs to dry overnight if we want to continue working on Sunday afternoon...

Starting to paint the rubberized waterproof membrane on the plywood

The completed shower floor membrane - now it must dry for 24 hours

We did get to enjoy a nice Sunday brunch, and by the time we finished, the membrane was finally dry....so, time to attach the shower base to the plywood. This base is a large, single piece of the Marmox board (an insulated waterproof tile-backer) that's designed for the floor: it's tapered to allow proper water drainage, and has a specially prepared hole that designed to fit with the drain as part of an integrated system.

The waterproof shower base will slide into this gap between the floor and wall

To attach the board to the plywood, we're again using the flexible, waterproof (of course!) tile adhesive.So after mixing up another batch of the adhesive, I carefully applied it using a notched trowel, and slid the floor board in place. I had one and only one shot at this: the board was specially ordered so we only had the one, and I had already cut it down to make it fit perfectly. So I was nervous...if anything went wrong (for example, if the mortar dried before I was finished), we'd have to start all over again and we wouldn't be ready for the tiler...that would be a disaster! I had put a lot of time and effort into doing the prep work to make sure there would be no problems, but you never really know how something is going to go until you actually do it. In this case, happily, all that prep work paid off, and everything come together beautifully!

Sunday, Feb 19th - Afternoon - Applying the adhesive to the plywood

The adhesive fully applied

Sliding in the board

With the board in place, the edges and joints were quickly siliconed, and special attention given to the two-part drain.

The board (shower pan) fixed in place with silicone around the edges

The final tasks for the night involved closing up the area under the shelf/ledge, applying the final waterproofing, and fastening the large piece of wood that will act as the lip and edge of the shower...

Closing-up and waterproofing the area under the shelf/ledge

The shower's lip/edge attached and waterproofed.

...So by 8:30pm (not too bad!) we were finally ready for the tiler.

The completed shower - ready for the tiler

Montage of the bathroom - the night before the tiler starts

Under the Shower: Waterproofing (part 4)

With the bathroom wall construction completed, I now have to make major progress on the shower - with the tiler coming on Monday there's a lot of work to do in just four days...

The next step is to finish waterproofing the area under shower, and permanently affix the raised shower floor. As mentioned in previous posts, I've gone a bit crazy with the waterproofing and have several redundant layers to minimize the chances of a leak. As part of this strategy there are actually two "floors" to the shower - the actual raised shower floor (because it is sitting on top of a steel beam), and then the sub-floor, which is level with the rest of the bathroom. Each "floor" - including the entirety of the bathroom floor - is to be fully waterproofed to increase the redundancy, (hopefully!) minimizing the chances that if there is ever a leak, it will not penetrate through to the flat below ours.

I started by waterproofing around the shower drain opening in the sub-floor - a large hole that was cut into the plywood while leveling the bathroom floor and installing plywood around the drain.

Feb 16th - applying the waterproof membrane around the drain

After the membrane was dry, the following day I fitted the Marmox insulated tile backer board, made sure everything fit together properly and prepared a bucket of flexible tile adhesive. As with the shower walls, the combination of the rubberized membrane, waterproof tile adhesive and waterproof tile backer board creates the redundant waterproof assembly.

Feb 17th - fitting the Marmox board in place

Testing to make sure everything fits!

Ready to go - mixed tile adhesive, cleaned sub-floor.

As mentioned in our roof posts, I have a serious aversion to mortar and troweled adhesives...mainly because I'm not that good at working with them and generally make a mess. This time I made a huge effort to learn from those initial experiences, mix smaller batches, and work quickly - yet carefully. Fortunately it went better than I expected, with minimal mess! The sub-floor was coated with the adhesive in sections, and the Marmox boards were placed over them.

Adhesive partially applied

First Marmox board down

Next few pieces on the left - the last section of adhesive on the right

In between the board edges, silicone is applied, and then taped over with a special (and expensive) waterproof tape that completes the waterproofing system at the joints.

Completed Marmox board with silicone along the joints

Extra waterproof tape around the drain opening

After all joints are siliconed and taped, I added several intermediate supports for the raised shower floor, making sure everything was level and cutting openings for the boiler's white condensate line. I then did a few final reviews of the waterproofing to verify there were no gaps or neglected areas, and screwed the waterproof plywood in place.

Feb 18th - Additional wood supports for the plywood base

Final shot before closing-up: fully taped and waterproofed

The plywood based permanently fastened

Permanently attaching the plywood made me somewhat nervous, as from this point onwards, I'll never again be able to access the drain and sub-floor in case there's a leak. I guess this is where having the redundant layers of waterproofing come into play, and provide some peace of mind. Not to mention a bit of confidence from the success of our new roof, and the fact that it has not (so far!) leaked...